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Gateau

The Surprising Simplicity of French Cakes

ebook
0 of 2 copies available
Wait time: About 2 weeks
0 of 2 copies available
Wait time: About 2 weeks
James Beard Award–winning writer Aleksandra Crapanzano shares the secrets of the cakes Parisians bake at home, from the simplest yogurt cakes to a deceptively easy bûche de Noël, from yuzu madeleines to boozy flourless chocolate confections.
When we think of French desserts, we tend to imagine ornate creations and confections. Perhaps we envision a tarte Tatin, but rarely a homemade cake, whipped up on a weeknight with little fuss. But that is exactly what Parisians make and eat. Gâteaux are simple, delicious cakes, both sweet and savory, served to family and friends.

As food-columnist Aleksandra Crapanzano spent time in Parisian home kitchens, she realized that the real magic is a certain savoir-faire, that distinctly French know-how that blends style and functionality in every aspect of life. By and large, the French do not try to compete with their chefs, nor with their boulangeres and patissieres. But many Parisians are natural cooks, and most finish dinner with a little something sweet, effortlessly made and casually served. The trick is having an arsenal of recipes that, once mastered, become blueprints, allowing for myriad variations, depending on what's in season and what's in the cupboard. It is a practical approach, and the French are nothing if not practical. That is the savoir-faire—from tying a silk scarf just so to popping a gateau in the oven without anyone even noticing. When you know what you're doing, there's no need to overthink it. It looks easy because it is easy.

While the Paris culinary world is experiencing a fresh vibrancy, certain traditions remain intact yet may surprise in their modernity. For example, French cakes have less sugar. The pure taste of apples is not masked by cinnamon, and vanilla is never a given. A gateau may be lightly glazed, dusted with cocoa or confectioners' sugar, drizzled with rose water, but rarely heavily iced. A splash of brandy, a squeeze of lemon or a thin blanket of ganache elevates even the easiest of cakes in mere minutes. And then there are savory cakes made with cheese, herbs, ham, baked into a delicious loaf. These cakes salés are ideal for picnic lunches, accompanied by a salad and a glass of Sancerre. Gâteau includes cakes for birthdays, summer feasts and winter holidays, last-minute dinner parties and school lunches, as well as beloved regional recipes and guest contributions from superstar Parisian bakers.

Practical, simple, and filled with over 100 rigorously tested recipes and charming illustrations, Gâteau celebrates every day and sometimes fanciful French cakes in all their glory.
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    • Publisher's Weekly

      June 27, 2022
      James Beard Award–winning writer Crapanzano (Eat. Cook. L.A.) demystifies the art of French baking at home in this delightfully illustrated guide. Drawing on the lessons she’s learned while living in Paris, she offers recipes that aim to assure readers that “Parisian culinary ease... is a choice, not a genetic superpower.” Indeed, her yogurt-based cakes prove to be quick and pantry-friendly, while a simple pound cake recipe is accompanied by dozens of variations for flavor mix-ins. Headnotes offer enticing commentary on the food culture; in a recipe for hazelnut cake, she notes: “The French are rightly loath to eat processed cereal and packaged granola bars, preferring instead to have a taste of something made by hand.” Chocolate cakes and genoise merit their own chapters, with creations inspired by notable bakers, Dorie Greenspan among them. A simple syrup that substitutes red wine for water enriches Crapanzano’s flourless chocolate cake, while an effortless genoise recipe—consisting of eggs, sugar, and cake flour—comes with surefire “tricks of the trade” that include the right length of time for beating the eggs, and proper storage of the cake. Even Crapanzano’s more aspirational cakes, such as the pistachio roulade with morello cherries, seem undaunting, thanks to her thoughtful instructions. Home bakers take heed—even a brief perusal of this excellent book may lead one to acquire large quantities of butter.

    • Booklist

      September 1, 2022
      Food writer Crapanzano sprinkles this compendium of cakes with anecdotes of Parisian life, speaking to the French savoir faire that continues to enamor Americans. While juggling work and family, the typical upper-class Parisian still finds the time to bake simple yet sophisticated treats like a walnut espresso cake or a rosewater and cardamom g�teau. The 100-plus recipes gathered here are broken into somewhat arbitrary categories (e.g., classics, nut, chocolate, layer, fanciful) that will appeal to both hurried bakers and those who want to spend the day working on their technique. The prose goes down like a cup of Earl Grey alongside a slice of flourless chocolate and red wine cake. Cassandre Montoriol's delectable illustrations imbue the collection with Proven�al sprigs of lavender and apricots, but there are far too few of these throughout the pages; representations of each cake would have served to break up a stream of recipes and provide visual cues. In spite of this, G�teau will undoubtedly find favor with Francophiles and fans of French patisserie looking for new inspiration.

      COPYRIGHT(2022) Booklist, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

    • Library Journal

      October 1, 2022

      French bakery cakes are often awe-inspiring but may be beyond the skill of an average baker and can be pricey to buy. Crapanzano (The London Cookbook; Eat. Cook. LA.) lived in Paris for many years and offers the recipes that French home bakers know well and make in their kitchens. Some she even describes as being learned by small children in school. The scope of the book is broad, from the schoolchild's basic yogurt cake to elaborate Pavlovas, Charlottes, and b�ches de No�l. There are recipes for cakes for all occasions and all sizes, introduced with long and informative descriptions that give encouragement and extra instructions. The author claims that anyone can bake these, but however confident she may be in the abilities of her readers, this book is not for rank beginners, as there is an imprecision in the ingredient specifications that might throw novices into a tizzy; however, experienced bakers should be okay. VERDICT Full of charming gouache illustrations and a wonderful friendly tone to the text. Public-library patrons will like this one.--Danise Hoover

      Copyright 2022 Library Journal, LLC Used with permission.

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