Drink Lightly

April 4, 2022
Mixologist David, former co-owner of the now-defunct Manhattan bar Nitecap, takes a bubbly approach to imbibing in this satisfying collection of low-booze cocktails. While full-proof spirits aren’t off the table entirely (but instead employed in smaller amounts), most drinks rely on low-alcohol apéritifs and wines. The pours may be light, but David goes heavy with the quips and tips, such as mixing cocktails ambidextrously for efficiency, and a adding seltzer to any cocktail to prolong the “delicious experience.” In a selection of “happy drinks,” cheekily named cocktails come with recommendations for when they’re “best enjoyed”: a sage and apricot highball called “Words of Wisdom,” for instance, is meant to be imbibed when “running your hand through someone’s hair,” while watermelon juice and sake soothes when “the sidewalk is blisteringly hot.” Taking the concept of low-ABV cocktails beyond the “limited lens of one-on-one highballs and Aperol Spritzes,” David offers light spins on stiff drinks with such inventive recipes as a martini-inspired concoction that gets a fresh kick from muddled cherry tomato. Meanwhile, cucumber juice spiked with saffron liqueur, and a mulled wine reduction topped with lambrusco are two party-ready recipes fit for crowds. Syrups and infusions (many made using a sous vide machine) include pineapple gum syrup and beet-infused Aperol. (Though, confoundingly, the final recipe is for garlic aioli.) A little spirit goes a long way in this delightful outing.