October 1, 2018
Barrow (Mrs. Wheelbarrow’s Practical Pantry) devotes an entire, glorious book to the subject of slab pies, which are made in a half-sheet pan. Barrow pushes the buttery, crusty envelope with her tempting recipes—both savory and sweet options for every meal of the day, whether it’s breakfast (Good Morning Cheese Danish Slab Pie); lunch (a reuben slab pie with rye crust); dinner (Moroccan shepherd’s pie); or dessert (a banana pudding pie with vanilla wafer crust). Barrow innovates with each recipe, whether it’s carbonara and zucchini-noodle slab pie; blackberry, sweet corn, and basil pie; or one with raspberry and rugelach. Creative recipes can feed crowds at the holidays, too, such as After-Thanksgiving Turkey Slab Pie and Christmas in London (a kind of French-Canadian tourtière). There are nontraditional pie crusts options as well, such as smoked fish with a caramelized onion crust, eggs florentine in a hash brown crust; and fried green tomatoes with a Ritz cracker crust. The most challenging part of this fun and inviting cookbook will be choosing which recipe to make first.
Starred review from September 15, 2018
Featuring dozens of recipes specially designed for the family dinner table, including leftovers for the next day, this latest work by Barrow (Mrs. Wheelbarrow's Practical Pantry) gives the popular slab pie--a shallow pie made in a sheet or jelly pan--special treatment, noting how easy they are to transport, portion, and serve. Her tried and trusted recipes range from savory (curried chicken; spinach, gorgonzola, and walnut) to sweet (banana pudding; not-so-old-fashioned apple pie. All are full of flavor. There are conversational, step-by-step instructions on creating crusts from scratch. Press-in crusts are also an option, and an overview of common equipment, such as a rolling pin and pastry brush, provide additional context, as do tips on adjusting for altitude. Of note is the ability to mix and match crusts; a caramelized onion or rye crust adds flavor to traditional pies. VERDICT This richly illustrated work brings a fresh, creative approach to slab pies; essential for weeknight meals and potlucks.
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